Navštíveno 11749x
tohle jsem hledal :)
je to tady celkem hezky sepsaný :)
jinak až budeš chtít tak písni a domluvíme se na testovací jízdě :)
A čo si hľadal? Asi si zabudol na odkaz :o) Dnes sa ešte detoxikujem, zajtra sa vraciam do Prahy, tak sa potom ozvem :o)
Díky voe :o) Už čítam :o)
2 Nissmo: 2000 Northstar redesigned to operate on regular unleaded.
To znamená, že do roku 2000 to potrebuje olovnatý? :o)
ne .. . . ..byl na 95okt ...... od roku 00 si vystačí s 93 což je pro ně "regular" :)
2 Nissmo: zaujímavé no... :o)
hele a víš že tam nemám dvě "S" v tom nicku ? : )))))))
2 Nisssssmo: ja viem, len akosi to mám zafixované z jedného fóra, kde bol típek z JP schválne písaný ako NiSSmo :o) Posnažím sa polepšiť :oD Hele a ako to je s prípadnou výmenou sériového rádia, trebárs za novší NAV/DVD systém? To tam asi len tak nepôjde, čo?
samo se tam dá dát dokoliv jinýho to neni estra problém, pak samo nastanou hlášky že se ti točí pomalu kazeta atd :)
výměna za novější origo s dotykovym LCD je pouze o přepojení pár drátů, přidání prá drátů pro AV vstup , a natažení jednoho VSS drátu nahoře z IP clusteru do rádia dolejc, laicky řečeno vehicle speed signal je potřeba.....pak musíš k dealerovi aby ti odblokoval theftock na tom new rádiu jinak nebude kominukovat . .... .. nevýhoda samo že jede jen lichý frekvence a NTSC signál , ale už sem si na to zvyknul a poho :) pak samo přestane chodit CD changer, musí se dát z novejší verze taky neb novější komunikuje už po datový sběrnici a rádio ho ovládá broadcastem po ní :) většina systému tam jede po sběrnici takže jako v počítači cca :)
jo a jediný co stojí za vyližprdel je že samo nemůžeš čučet na obraz za jízdy ani měnit CD :)
kód pro odblokování je 1791 a musí se dávat při každym nastartování takže pruda ale taky zvyk :)
2 Nismo: aha, jasne. Takže najideálnejšie je aj po prípadnom dovoze z US dať EU verziu rádia a nesrať sa do Navi :o))))) Už som sa pýtal, ale neodpovedal si ani zhruba, ako často sa mení olej? Vydrží to aspoň 10k km? :o)
btw. našiel som zopár veľmi vymazlených fotos od jedného típka na jednom nemenovanom fóre, dovolím si ich sem hodiť pár...
slint, slint a ešte raz slint :o)
hezký fotos :))
výměna oleje je závislá od toho jak dlouhý jezdíš trasy, v jaký jezdíš teplotě, jak moc tomu šlapeš na krk, počtu nastartování a ještě jedný věci ale ted nevim co .. . .. . .
já menim po cca 6ti tis :) ..... palubák ti to hlídá sám podlě těhle parametrů a máš tam v procentech kolik ti zbejvá, kdyby tě to sralo jako mě (často dolejvám) tak normál zresetuješ a nezájem :) jinak životnost oleje musí mít vždy 100% psáno .. . . . jak nemá jě někde něco blbě ale zatim sem neslyšel že by někomu ukazovalo min :)
údržba :
Cadillac Recommended Maintenance Schedule
"A" Service - 3k $59.95 (price in New York) - Every 3000 miles
- Change engine oil, lube and filter (additional charge for Northstar)
- Reset oil life indicator
- Lubricate chassis, rubber bushings and hinges
- Inspect air filter
- Check tire inflation
- Visual inspection of tire wear
- Visual inspection of wheel alignment
- Check all instruments, accessories and lights
- Check and fill all fluid levels
"B" Service - 6k $109.95 (price in New York) - Every 6000 - 21000 - 36000 - 51000 - 66000 - 81000 miles
- Change engine oil, lube and filter (additional charge for Northstar)
- Rotate tires - computerized state of the art vibration system
- Inspect front suspension and check wheel alignment
- Lubricate and inspect front suspension, drive line, steering, hinges, cable guides and contact points (if applicable)
- Inspect front disc brake system
- Inspect rear brake system
- Inspect drive belts, hoses, cables, lights, horn, filters, tires and fluid levels
- Inspect exhaust system and heat shields for leaks, damage or loose parts
- Inspect throttle linkage
- Torque carburetor or throttle body mounting bolts (6000 miles only)
- Bravada rear axle service, drain and flush rear axle and refill fluid (Add $99.95 (price in New York))
"C" Service - 15k $329.95 (price in New York) - Every 15000 - 45000 - 75000 - 105000 miles
- Change engine oil, lube and filter (additional charge for Northstar)
- Replace air filter, fuel filter and PCV
- Check belts and hoses
- Lubricate and inspect front suspension, drive line, steering, hinges, cable guides and contact points (if applicable)
- Clean, inspect front disc brake system
- Clean, inspect rear brake system
- Inspect parking brake for damage and operation (adjust if needed)
- Inspect exhaust system and heat shields for leaks, damage or loose parts
- Rotate tires and balance - computerized state of the art vibration system
- Inspect front suspension and check wheel alignment
- Service automatic transmission/transaxle, replace necessary fluid and pan gasket, clean filter screen
- Service battery - Test battery charge and clean terminals
- Road test vehicle
- Wash and vacuum (Saturday only coupon offer**)
- Throttle body and fuel injection cleaning (Add $99.95 (price in New York))
- Bravada rear axle service, drain and flush rear axle and refill fluid (Add $99.95 (price in New York))
- Timing belt replacement (Catera only - additional parts not included) (Add $289.95 (price in New York))
"D" Service - 30k $459.95 (price in New York) - Every 30000 - 60000 - 90000 - 120000 miles
- Change oil, lube and filter (additional charge for Northstar)
- Replace air cleaner and PCV, fuel filter
- Replace engine coolant, tighten hoses and connections, pressure test (2 gallons)
- Service automatic transmission/transaxle, replace necessary fluid and pan gasket, clean filter screen
- Inspect exhaust system and heat shields for leaks, damage or loose parts
- Reset oil light indicator
- Lubricate body hinges and latches
- Service throttle body, remove carbon deposits, set idle to factory specifications, add fuel additive
- Inspect front suspension and check wheel alignment
- Tire rotation and balance - computerized state of the art vibration system
- Clean, inspect front disc brake system
- Clean, inspect and adjust rear brake system
- Service battery - Test battery charge and clean terminals
- Check engine timing
- Inspect EGR system
- Inspect fuel tank cap and lines
- Road test vehicle
- Wash and vacuum (Saturday only coupon offer**)
- Bravada rear axle service, drain and flush rear axle and refill fluid (Add $99.95 (price in New York))
- Timing belt replacement (Catera only - additional parts not included) (Add $289.95 (price in New York))
Additional Maintenance
- Replace fuel filter $49.95
- Service battery terminals, check alternator output, lead test battery $39.95
- Electronic balance, 4 wheels (includes tire rotation) $69.95
- Align front suspension $89.95
- Align front and rear suspension (computerized state of the art system) $99.95
- Air conditioning service (leak test and add one pound of refrigerant)(extra refrigerant at additional charge) $129.95
- Drain and refill antifreeze $89.95
- Flush and clean fuel injectors $99.95
- Service automatic transmission/transaxle (replace necessary fluid and pan gasket, clean filter screen)(additional charge for Northstar) $99.95
- Replace front brake pads (resurfacing of rotors not included) $169.95 / additional charge to resurface rotors $75.00 / Extra charge for trucks and 4 wheel drive vehicles and other various types of vehicles; see your advisor
- Replace rear brake shoes (resurfacing of rotors not included) $169.95 / additional charge to resurface rotors $75.00 / Extra charge for trucks and 4 wheel drive vehicles and other various types of vehicles; see your advisor
- Emissions service - includes air filter, PCV filter and fuel filter $99.95
- Vehicle check for road trip (includes chassis lube, oil and filter change, plus 21 point safety check, tires and wheels, brake system, light system and signals, steering, shocks, front and rear suspension, fuel and exhaust systems, road test vehicle $88.95
- Complete alarm system, Lo Jack and remote starters (see your service advisor)
spotřeba oleje apod.
Northstar Oil Consumption (check this discussion for references): (back to the top)
It is not unusual for a Northstar to use more oil than some other engines. It is a high performance engine and has to allow a little more oil to the top rings for lube as as well as down the 32 valve guides.
Design intent for oil consumption would put the engine at about 4000 miles per quart consumption but due to the variables in production parameters there are engines that will use 1 quart per 1000-1500 miles.... perfectly normal and acceptable... but more oil consumption than "intended". Nothing will be wrong with the engine but the continuous oil adds are aggravating. If this is the case then understand that the engine is probably going to run a long long time like that as the cylinder walls , rings, valve guides, etc. like all that oil that you are putting in and the continuous oil adds fortify the used oil in the sump and replenish the additive package in the oil that is slowly depleted under normal usage.
Comparing the 4.9 to the Northstar is an apples to oranges deal. The 4.9 is an excellent engine for it's purpose but does not offer nearly the performance, durability, fuel economy and emission control capability of the Northstar. The Northstar is a high output engine and likes to be "used".
The best way to minimize oil consumption in a Northstar is to keep the sump filled slightly low (many are continuously overfilled) by only checking the oil level when hot and only filling the sump with 7 quarts of oil (7.5 with a dry filter at a change.) A typical 8 quart fill at a change is "required" to put the oil level on the full mark when cold but is actually overfilling the crankcase promoting oil consumption.
Use conventional mineral oil (synthetic is not required at all) as it tends to provide better oil consumption.
An last, but not least, air the engine out frequently. It likes to be used and red-line upshifts at WOT help promote clean combustion chambers, exercise the piston rings to keep them free of carbon buildup and keep them mobile and to ensure the engine is broken in and maximum sealing is obtained. The Northstar does not like to be babied around. It likes to be run hard frequently with a WOT blast in merging or whatever.... Even engines reported to use 1 quart per 1500 miles tend to improve to 2500 miles per quart or better when subjected to a regular schedule of use and "abuse"...
----------
The subject of oil consumption really does not have a "final" answer. The fact is that there is some variability in oil consumption in all production engines.... regardless of who makes them on which continent. All the manufacturers recognize this and virtually all of them will call oil consumption as great as 1 quart in 1000 miles "normal" "acceptable" "allowable" "within production tolerances" etc... This doesn't mean that all engines will get 1000 MPQ or that the engine was designed to get 1000 MPQ...it just recognizes the fact that there are going to be some engines that get 1000 MPQ that will be perfectly fine upon disassembly and will have nothing "wrong" with them.
The variables that usually enter into oil consumption are primarily associated with the piston/ring/cylinder bore. The number of valves or type of valve actuation has little to do with it.
The single biggest variable and the one that has been discussed at great length on this forum is the cylinder bore finish or the cylinder honing pattern. The higher performance the engine is the more attention must be paid to the honing pattern and retention of oil on the cylinder walls to lubricate the piston and rings at full load , high RPM operation. The Northstar engine uses a very aggressive cylinder bore finish that tends to retain a lot of oil to protect the piston and rings. When the blocks are honed at the factory there is a tolerance in the bore finish due to the fact that the honing stones will wear and need replacement. A brand new stone gives a slightly more aggressive pattern than a "used" stone....so a block honed with new stones will have a more aggressive finish and most likely will use more oil.
Another variable is bore roundness. Like it or not, the bores tend to "move" slightly as the engine heats up and cools down and bolt tensions relax, etc. over time. All this contributes to slight bore out of roundness that is not bad or good...just different.
Carbon buildup in the rings and ring sealing are also variables that come into play with break in, operating schedule, type of oil used, etc.
The one thing that I can attest to is that many, many customer oil consumption complaint engines have been torn down with absolutely nothing wrong found. The engines are often reassembled and put into test cars and driven by the engineers and more often than not the high oil consumption does not repeat itself !!! The single biggest common cause seems to be breakin...or lack there of. Many, many oil consuming NOrthstar engines are "fixed" by some full throttle operation. I often joke about "driving it like you stole it" but it really is no joke. The Northstar engine was designed as a high performance engine to be run hard and fast. Those that are run hard typically exhibit excellent ring seal, little carbon build up and good oil economy. We have seen engines with tens of thousands of miles on them that the rings have not sealed or mated to the sides of the ring grooves because the operating schedule was so light duty. The moral here is to flog it .... often.
In any case, the nice thing about the engines with the more aggressive honing pattern is that the pistons, rings and bores will last forever. It is very common to tear down a 200,000 mile Northstar engine and still see the original honing pattern in the cylinders. There is never any sign of cylinder wall wear and the idea of a wear "ridge" at the top of the cylinder bore is something that is laughable on a Northstar.
The other nice thing about a little oil consumption is that it adds tremendous safety factor to the oil change interval. Nothing could be better for the engine than an occasional quart of fresh oil. You can take the worst oil on the market and add a fresh quart every 1000 miles and over the life of the engine the wear will be better than an engine run on the best oil with no adds between changes.
While no one in the engineering community wants high oil consumption the fact is that there is some variability in the oil consumption of an engine manufactured at the rate of 1200 per day. The specs of what is "normal" simply reflects this...it does not imply that all engines would get this or that something is wrong with and engine that gets more or less oil consumption.
There have been a lot of engineering changes over the years on the Northstar aimed at reducing the overall oil consumption and reducing the variability in the oil consumption of different engines. Many changes have been made to the honing process to make it more consistent. Changes to the piston and ring groove treatment have been made to make it more resistant to wear, pound out and micro welding at low oil retention rates. Regardless, there is still some variability.
One other thing that affects oil consumption, or the customers perception of oil consumption, is the move toward longer and longer change intervals. With the allowable change interval reaching as high as 12,500 miles on a 2003 Northstar if the oil life monitor is followed this could mean the addition of 3,4 or 5 quarts of oil to a very healthy engine. If the owner changes their oil every 2000 or 3000 miles, despite the oil life monitor recommendations, then they would not have to add any oil between changes. The oil consumption is the same....the amount added between changes is all that is different. Yet, many customers do not make the distinction. Field surveyors repeatedly show that "acceptable" oil consumption means "not having to add between changes"...whatever MPQ that is...???
The issue of oil consumption is very emotional , too, as many people perceive higher oil consumption as 'poor quality" or an indication that something is wrong. Blue smoke, fouling plugs, noise, etc...is a sign of something wrong. Using 1 quart in 1000 miles might be perfectly normal for an engine that has the high limit "rough" hone finish and is perfectly in spec...yet it will be perceived differently.
The Northstar engine in particular was designed to be a high performance engine and to perform well at high speeds and high loads. The engines are tested at loads and speeds for time periods few customers will ever be able to duplicate. It is unfortunate that the engineering that goes into making the engine capable of such running sometimes contributes to more oil consumption... especially as the production machining tolerances are taken into account.
The items mentioned about overfilling also apply. Make sure that the system is not overfilled as any excess oil will be pushed out the PCV. The best bet is to always check the oil hot and keep it midway between the add and full mark. Don't always top off and don't top off cold to the full mark as that will overfill the sump.
Hope this helps rather than adding more fuel to the fire... so to speak.
Incidentally, there is a lot in the message board / forum archives... check using "oil consumption" and read up. Always keep in mind that for every "oil burner" you read about on the internet there are 10,000 or more driving around perfectly fine that the people are not posting about... You are always going to read about the horror cases on the internet.
jízda bez chladící kapaliny ala Camel Mode :)
Camel Mode - Loss of Coolant Protection
The Northstar engine has a loss of coolant protection mode where four cylinders are shut down (the injectors are turned off) so they can cool themselves by pumping only air... Once that set of four cylinders is cooler, they're turned back on and then the other four cylinders are shut down to cool. The two groups of cylinders continue to shut down alternately so as to protect the engine during a severe overheating situation and allow the driver to reach a safe place rather than be stranded on the side of the road.
It has been nick named "camel mode" since the engine can run without water in it.
Camel mode is VERY effective on the Northstar for several reasons...
1. It is an all aluminum engine. Without coolant it transfers heat very effectively through the entire engine...and to the oil. The oil starts to become a secondary heat sink and cooling medium along with the air pumping thru the cylinders with no combustion going on.
2. The engine has a lot of power and it is in relatively lighter weight passenger cars. So...it has ample power on only four cylinders to still move the car.
Don't forget that the four "dead" cylinders are still pumping air (and making no power) so the pumping losses are huge. Much of the power of the running four cylinders is being eaten up to pump air thru the other four. So it isn't as though you have only a four cylinder engine to run the car on. More like you have an equivalent 2.5 cylinders worth of power to run the car.
3. The system was heavily developed on the Northstar originally so it is specifically tailored to that engine.
The camel mode or loss of coolant protection is very very effective on a Northstar as many folks can attest. It is way way more than just marketing ploy. I have personally left work several times with a development car with no coolant in it and driven 45 miles home in limp home mode and then drove back in the next day. And the engine survived MANY trips like this with me and other people and was fine when filled with coolant. Max speed is about 45-50 MPH and it will slow considerably on any grade but it will get you to safety.
Several magazines have tested the system with excellent results. Motor Trend, years ago, took a car to Gilla Bend, drained the coolant and drove back to LA. Car was on a press junket at Sears Point raceway several months later and it shocked the MT scribes to see it there running fine after they had done the loss of coolant test with it....and returned it without telling anyone in the Cadillac press fleet operation.
In addition, USAC took several cars and did the independent, third party testing of the system to validate the advertising copy and such for the networks and magazines.
Other GM vehicles have a version of the limp home mode also, but it is never marketed as a 50 miles at 50 MPH type of system or that it has that capability. The basic function is there but it cannot work as well as the system in the Northstar in all applications:
1. The trucks are heavy and the power in four cylinder mode is not enough to move the vehicle very fast and very far.
2. Some of the engines are not all aluminum and the iron blocks do not transfer heat as well and the engine develops hot spots that minimize the effectiveness of the system.
The limp home is there but it is marginally effective. It is better than nothing...and any cooling system failure has the ability to just stop the car immediately so it may help and may not in any given case.
Other cars (like some of the four cylinder, all aluminum engines) have little or no success with the limp home mode due to the low power available when in only two cylinders...with less than one cylinder of power available due to the pumping losses.
The trans fluid in the modern cars is easily good for the life of the car in normal driving. Running it to 100K is very "safe" and will cause no harm to the trans.
kontrola hlavy :
Several Ways to Check for a Blown Head Gasket (check this discussion for references): (back to the top)
- Start the engine cold with the pressure cap off the pressurized surge tank. Watch the coolant in the surge tank for signs of bubbling or "false boilling". If so then it may be a sign that combustion pressure is entering the system through a failed head gasket.
- Pump up the cooling sytem pressure with a cooling system pressure tester pump. Hold it at 15 PSI for several hours. Keep pumping it up if the pressure drops. In the meantime, pull the plugs. After several hours holding pressure, rotate the engine with the starter with the plugs out. Watch for coolant spewing out from the spark plug ports as a sign of a leaking head gasket.
- With the cooling system full, apply 120 PSI shop air to each of the combustion chambers, one at a time, through the spark plug port. Make an adapter out of an old spark plug shell and run shop air to the port. Rotate the engine so that the valves for that cylinder are closed. Watch the coolant in the surge tank for bubbling. If the chamber holds the 120 PSI with no bubbling then chances are the head gasket is fine.
Uff, tak som si prečítal hlavne to s tým olejom... :o) Zvláštne, že nie je nejaký "klasický" osvedčený interval výmeny... ale tých 6 tisíc je dosť krátky interval nie? To sa dosť predraží, ak dobre počítam... na dízlu mením 4.5l oleja každých 10-15 tisíc, záleží na tom či som chodil diaľku alebo len mesto, ale 7-7.5l každých cca. 6-7 tisíc by bolo o dosť drahšie :o)
záleží jak jezdíš :D když jezdíš jako prase (já) tak to máš každejch 6-7 tis 7 litrů oleje výměna a to nepočítám že dolejvám což je taky podle stylu jízdy :)
2 Nismo: tak inak. Ako dlho máš to auto? Čo to pri normálnom používaní stojí za rok? Niesom šetřílek, ale zas zbytočne vyhadzovať nechcem, keď nemusím... Čítal som, že to chce často honiť, to je rovné spotrebe oleja a benálu, s tým problém nemám. Mám trochu skeptický postoj ešte furt k tej elektrike a tak, nesere sa to? :o) Cez nejaký víkend by si asi nemal čas, čo? Ja stíham len po práci dôjsť niekam, čo je tak o řiestej, siedmej v Prahe, alebo tie víkendy... Rád by som sa o Seville pobavil radřej osobne...
auto mám přes rok už , nesčítám co mě to stojí ale opravy typu že se něco bylo potřeba vyměnit to ani nevim .. . . .. přední kotouče 1300 za kus neb tam byly origo a měly skoro 1mm hranu .. .. . dál... .... třetíé brzdový světlo, vysralo se před měsícem (bylo naprasklý na rohu a oxidovalo, myslim že nepocházelo z mýho auta ano) to mě vyšlo asi 1500 i s poštou . . . . .dále se mi tam vysrali dvě žárovky v interiéru, jedna na volantu jedna v tapecáku , tlačítka do volantu sem obědnal ted oboje, jedno za 33 doláčů přímo od GM. .. .. . . to sou závady za který já nemůžu
ale sečtěme ty jiný
nákup gum AVON ZV3 kde jedna měla výrobní vadu, na místě kde byla : vrchní uložení tlumiče , silentbloky ted budu měnit, čepy sem udělal pro sichr , kosti stabíku . .. . . všechno to sou levný věci ale
dále :
strčení prstu do řemenu u vodní pumpy :
3x menění alternátoru sem tam , je to vtipný ale podrobnosti klidně řeknu osobně pochopíš to :)
nevhodný se válení po předních sedadlech - roztrh sem vyhřívací drát :))) stále sem se nedokopal to opravit :)
a jinak asi nic..... olej většinou koupim těch 7-8 litrů tak za tisícovku komplet a filtr stojí 150kč .....olej sem měnil asi 5-6krát nevim nepočítám to :))
dále už sou jen věci který si vylepšůju sám či jen tak preventivně kupuju a vyměnuju.......
nejdřív HIDky , ted dělám bixenon
vodní pumpu s termostatem jakožto prevenci
origo navigace + dobovej changer
výměna SW místo origa
KN filtr
menil sem servopumpu jen tak z dlouhý chvíle
řemeny nový jen tak z dlouhý chvíle
napínák řemenu z dlouhá chvíle
váha vzduchu z dlouhý chvíle
co byla dvouhá chvíle je většinou že sem to našel hrozně levně na ebay :)
svíčky sem měnil hned po koupi
dělal sem destičky vepředu (1500kč) a destičky vzadu (1500kč)
ted si udělám ještě pár silentbločku na zadku taky z dlouhý cvhíle neb stojej kolem 5dolarů jeden tak sem objednal taky :)
každopádně většina výdajů do toho je benzín, a když se do toho nebudeš vrtat jako já tak ti tam fakt stěží něco odejde :)
víkendy většinou čas mám takže vpoho :)
a ještě co je tam dlouhodobější "závada" tak to že někdo sral na výměnu pylovýho filtr....... ten byl skoro totál neprůchozí až kvůli němu klepapa vrtule u topení.......vyměnil sem s vrtule ztichla nicméně stejně už je tim lehce poznamenaná ale nic závažnýho :)
2 Nismo: nice :o) Doštičky máš cca. za tú istú cenu ako ja na o 300kg ľahšieho Prassata, ktorému ešte chýba k Tvojim to, že brzdia o 190 koní slabšie auto :o) Čo prvky podvozku? Tie veci čo si písal, servopumpa, čapy, uloženie tlmičov a tak, nejaké cca. ceny? :o) BTW. keby sa náhodou veľmi vysralo auto, je tu niekto v Prahe, kto to vie opraviť a nechce za to cenu Fábie 1.2HTP? Na Prassate som si robil väčšinu vecí sám, asi 2 roky, ale prestal som mať na to čas a náladu sa furt špiniť, tak mi to robí môj mechanik, ktorý je snáď na svete ten najlepší, ale s Amerikami skúsenosti samozrejme nemá... kor keď je to tak preelektrizované :o) Ďalšie čo by ma zaujímalo, na to som sa už pýtal, akosi som ale na webe nenašiel, je nejaký konkrétny výrobca, čo na to robí kolesá? Lebo tie origo Caddie by som ja osobne nechal možno so zimnými gumami. Páčia sa mi tie, čo máš teraz na tom (si v nejakom threade dával fotky), ale furt by to možno chcelo ešte niečo iné, len tak zo zvedavosti... :o) Snažil som sa hľadať na Googly niečo čo je 5x115, ale chýbali mi informácie ako ET a stredová diera, tak som sa ďaleko nedostal... dík za info :o)
destičky stály tak moc protože byly s dovozem .. .. . .. v USA stojej myslim od 20ti do asi 80ti dolarů na předek podle toho jestly normál nebo keramika :)
servopumpa mě vyšla přes simix (takže zase plus dovoz) repas za 3500 myslim nebo kolem toho , čepy . . .. .nevim fakt pakatel jestly 500 tak to je moc :) uložení tlumiče je dražší , asi 3000 jedno ale to sem měnit musel kvůli tý gumě...... bez simixe by to vyšlo tak na 1500 s dovozem . . . . .. . většinu věci na tom zvládneš sám to se fakt neboj je to velice easy když odečtu výměnu alternátoru a pylovej filtr :D
mechanici samozřejmě sou, třeba simix nebo muj známej... . . .. jeden dělá motor atd a druhej jen převodovky a oba sou fakt machři a mnohem levnější než kdejakej servis na škodovky kterej ti většinu věcí posere víc než byly :))
5x115 seženeš jen v USA...... eBay je toho plná za velemalý peníze ..... .dovoz by zařídil matco lodí to neni problém :)
v čr ti zbejvá 5x114,3 a plovoucí matky :)
ET nevim kolik tam je ale něco kolem 35ti myslim a středovka 70,3 :)
ty co mám já budu asi muset prodat, nevim jak je dostat dovnitř :( sou 5x112 a mám tam přechod podložky ze 112 na 115 a sou prostě široký a min než 2,2 cm nejdou :(
2 Nismo: zajtra Ti zavolám, ak bude normálne počasie a skočil by som za Tebou :o) ak budeš teda doma, of course...
2 Nismo: tak ešte raz vďaka pekne, dosť si mi pomohol s tým, i keď už som bol plusmínus rozhodnutý :o)
05.04.2008, 21:44 |
FSAL :) budem delat srazy ;)
05.04.2008, 22:38 |
FSAL ja Eldorado ;)
2 FSAL: už ho máš, alebo plánuješ? :o)
2 FSAL: už ho máš, alebo plánuješ? :o)
06.04.2008, 10:32 |
FSAL planuju, ale sem rozhodnut, takze jen cekam vlastne
planuju, ale sem rozhodnut, takze jen cekam vlastne
;)
;)
vole :o)
vole :o)
Takže ako ja... ja šetrím už pol roka na nové auto, zanedlho by som mal dostať väčší obnos peňazí, tak viem kam to vraziť... Nismo mi to včera veľmi pekne predviedol, neskutočný masaker :o)
06.04.2008, 12:38 |
FSAL :)
no prachy uz snad budou, ted spis cekam na vhodnej kousek (cernej a ETC verzi rok 97 vejs), kazdopadne mam v zaloze cervenej 99 ;)
2 FSAL: tak to hej :o) Ja sa chystám na exteriér farby tej, čo vidíš vyššie a béžový interiér, 98, 99 alebo novšie, uvidím na čo bude cash :o))))
